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A single album comes to mind when I reminisce about one of the most emotional days of my trip. "Without You I'm Nothing," by Placebo played on loop for the 45 minute journey from Krakow to the concentration camp at Auschwitz in Poland. I thought that I knew what this trip would do to me emotionally, but soon found out that I had under estimated the impact that the camp would actually have on me.
We pulled up to the bus stop near the entrance on a rainy afternoon. The Placebo album was still playing. I will never forget the song "Ask For Answers," because it played during my first steps under the camp's sign that reads in German, Arbeit Macht Frei, or, Work Makes You Free. I would have usually kept my music playing if I had been visiting any other type of museum or historic site, but I had an impulse that told me that by not removing my head phones I would be disrespecting those who had been contained there.
People of all ages gazed with disbelief at the cells that many prisoners called home for as long as they could survive during their encampment. Several beds of hay sprawled across the floor acted as a cushion for prisoners to sleep on. Right out side of this cell block stands the "wall of death." This is a wall where prisoners were taken to be executed for acts of insubordination towards German guards. I envisioned the prisoners inside of their crowded cells fearfully watching their fellow inmates get shot in the back. I attempted to choke back my tears. Some of the people around me bawled. I couldn't prevent myself from letting a few tears trickle out.
I was feeling famished from walking around, but my appetite was suppressed by the horrifying images that I had witnessed.
I moved among many cell blocks before stumbling across the gas chambers and the crematorium. The bricks above the massive furnaces were blackened from the smoke. The stained bricks were left to remind countless tours of people of the massive death toll that was the holocaust. An information board described workers known as "Sonderkommandos," prisoners who were forced to do this work or die, dragging bodies of other inmates into the furnace carts. I couldn't even begin to empathize with the prisoners or the other people touring the camp who had lost a loved one at this location.
My visit to Auschwitz was touching and extremely difficult to bear. When I listen to music, my mind tells a story behind it, but when I hear "Ask For Answers" I crack. My mind takes me through a type of time warp to that wet and foggy day that forever changed my perspective about life and death. More importantly, that song reminds me to stay humble and be thankful for every breath of air I am privileged to inhale.
The theme of the fountain is "taming of the waters," which is personified by Oceanus, the god of all water. Oceanus is centered in the grand fountain, standing in a sea shell chariot guided by Tritons. His presence is heightened by a tumble of rock and water spilling into a grand pool at the base of the sculpture.
A more modern version of the coin legend is that a person will bring themselves luck if they throw three coins over their left shoulder with their right hand. As the photo shows, I had the correct hand to toss the coin, but the wrong shoulder. With this new theory, (no body knows for sure where this theory originated, but the fountain collects roughly 3,000 euros a day) the Trevi has become more of an aquatic piggy bank.
Like the coin legend, time changes all aspects of the fountain. Oceanus may have been in charge of taming the waters for centuries, but now that duty is fulfilled by zealous guards.
The night we came upon the fountain, two guards, members of the Carabinieri were indeed fulfilling their duty in keeping everyone away from the fountain. Tossing in a few coins is fine, but if someone dips a finger, or God forbid, a toe, the guards blow their whistles, and yell to stay out of the fountain. Of course, this all takes place with a cigarette in mouth.
It was time to update the coin legend again. However, this would not require any sort of financial donation. The new legend was to submerge one's body, get photo evidence, scramble out of the fountain and run like hell.
It was initially Mike's idea, but I decided that I'd accompany him on taming the waters. Noley Bear was on camera duty. Andrew was on sandal patrol. We both slipped off our sandals like we were entering a dojo.
Mike's legs were jelly. His heart rate elevated as he descended down the stairs. I was full of butterflies. Not the type you get right before you are about to get into a scuffle, but the type that flutter around your insides right before you are about to do something really, really stupid.
Mike led the way and did a Pete Rose slide into the shallow waters. With one smooth, Michael Phelps (pre-bong toke style) breast stroke, he was in the middle of the pool. I followed with a splash. We both popped inches from the shadow of Oceanus' ocean-sized testicles.
We posed momentarily, glamor shots style, knowing Nolie bear had his trusty Nikon poised to snap. We popped up, felt a strange hush, then a surprised gasp from the onlooking crowd.
We both knew that we had to make a quick, clean bank robbery exit. Kind of like Bobby DeNiro in Heat, but without the awesome gunfight.
The bottom of the fountain is a slippery combination of moss and coin. Mike and I were neck to neck as we tried to scramble out of the fountain. Due to the slippery bottom, we both lurched for the edge, but plunged back into the fountain. I got the sensation that a possible beat down, served family style by the Carabinieri, was evident. I knew Mike had the same feeling by the scared shit-less look he wore on his face. We both clawed out of the fountain like we were contestants on American Gladiators in the home stretch of the Eliminator. The escape from the fountain pretty much mirrored the scene in Star Wars where Luke Skywalker saves Han Solo from falling into the sand monster after escaping from Jabba the Hut's lair.
The Trevi Fountain is located in a small square where three narrow alleys meet. We ran up the alley on the opposite of guards. I pulled ahead of Mike. All I could see in the narrow corridor was the blue lights police car bouncing off the walls. Sirens pierced the night, people dining in cafes cheered us on and Mike yelled "RUN!!" with the type of desperation that creeps into a person's voice pending bodily harm and or a night in jail. Needless to say, neither of us wanted a night in an Italian holding cell.
By the time we reached the end of the alley, we were running side by side. The weight of my soaking shirt was slowing me down. We both ripped our shirts off, threw them to the ground, and continued on with board shorts and bare chests.
I spied a stack of chairs that was covered by tarps near a closed cafe. It was similar to the blanket forts created by children at countless sleepovers. I thought it would make for a perfect hiding place, however, there was no place to actually hide. Luckily for me, I had seen the Bourne Supremacy recently so I was able to make a quick decision. As Jason Bourne would surely vouch, hesitation gets you caught. We took a hard left at the end of the alley, the police still in pursuit. Across the street a car was parked outside of a garage. We both slid behind it. The police passed, but we knew we had to keep moving. Bourne always keeps moving. We ran by an apartment building with a door slightly cracked. We slouched in the doorway, shut the door and hit the deck.
At this point in our European trip, we had done plenty of recreational activities, so our cardio was not at its peak. We stayed on the ground in the apartment doorway for what seemed like hours, but was actually just minutes.
I assessed the situation and confirmed the parameters to be clear. Time to move again. I was certain of one thing, we had to stay off major streets. We were not exactly incognito as we were both wet and shoeless. Rome is not the best laid out city in terms of going from point A to point B in a straight shot. It is closer to a mangled spider web than a grid. Although we had been in the city a few days, and had gotten fairly familiar, we knew that the crosstown trek back to the hostel would take more than a little navigational luck.
We rushed to a familiar bus stop, hoping that a bus would take us closer to our hostel and further from danger.
We sat at the stop for 45 minutes, but no buses were stopping. It was time to Olympic Power Walk back to safety at the Asterix II Hostel.
Walking along the stone roads barefooted is not exactly a leisurely stroll down a white sand beach. There are many hazards waiting to make your dogs bark including, but not limited to, heroin needles, broken glass, used condoms, loose stones and motor oil.
We arrived at our safe haven a few hours later. We walked in and the owner of the hostel, Johnny, said, “What the fuck were you guys doing? Causin ' trouble?” (He claimed he was full Italian, born in Rome. He said he had lived in Echo Park for a few years, but I secretly thought he was an ex-con from the U.S. in some sort of witness protection program.)
I overheard a couple from New York say that they saw two of the guys from California get arrested. I immediately thought Andrew and Noley had taken the fall for our plunge. What worried me was not so much getting them out of incarceration, but rather, that upon first questioning, Nolie would sing like a canary. The couple had been sightseeing at the Trevi during our coin legend update.
I changed into dry clothes and popped out into the common area to let them know that we had escaped. The only soldiers left behind that night were a couple of wet tees. Noley and Andrew eventually got back. I was relieved, to say the least. The couple said that it made their night to see someone jump in the fountain. They said the crowd was shocked. The guy, whose name I can't remember, said they weren't sure what was going on, until they saw the police chase after us.
I still had some fear of the police finding us at the hostel. Johnny reaffirmed that if the police came to the door, they would not be let in.
Johnny continued to calm me down and quelled my previous fear of imprisonment. He said that we would not have spent any time in jail. They just would have, as Johnny articulated, “beat the shit out of you.” Comforting. We had left our mark on Rome. Throwing coins into the Trevi may ensure your return, or bring about good fortune, but throwing your body in means a part of you always stays in the Eternal City.
The above are the series of photos Noley was able to capture.
My trip to Europe was going well up until I arrived at the coastal city of Biarritz, France. My stomach ached for most of the train ride and it wasn't until I was no where near a toilet that I had to relieve my colon of the black snake moan that was slivering around inside. The tightly squeezed aperture that was my butt hole stung several times before I found a nice parking lot to let the snake out for some air. After a long sleepless night filled with frequent parking lot visits my train had arrived to take us on a long journey to Barcelona, Spain.
We had to take a detour from Biarritz up to Paris and then back down to Toulouse before we could board one more train to Latour de Carol. The last thing I wanted to do was keep traveling after several painful train rides. It was my fault though, I ignorantly slurped laxatives and popped Imodium A.D. at the same time. I really had no choice so I trooped on with the group and carried a burning in my anus and desire for a nice hotel room with a toilet. And not the typical non-American version of a toilet that ranges from hole in the ground to metal tin. Iyearned for a proper toilet that would act as the perfect venue to battle my demons. Before my dreams could come true, I had to board a toilet-less bus to get to our final destination.
Usually, a toilet free bus is the way to travel, however, given the condition of my recent bowel movements, a toilet-less bus was a disastrous situation for me to be in. I had almost completely exhausted my sphincter over the last 48 hours and wasn't sure if I could prevent myself from a classic slip up. I boarded the bus with a slight hesitation, but didn't really have much of a choice. The desolate train station that borders Northern Spain had no lodging facilities near by and would be closing soon.
The bus zoomed out of the parking lot onto a narrow road carved into the side of a mountain. Usually I would enjoy the beautiful sights of the mountain range during the ride, but my aching stomach was too much of a distraction. I had to use my ninja focus to keep my cheeks clenched around every tight corner. I sat nervously in the back while sweat dripped down my forehead. The perspiration was not so much due to the erratic driving, but rather, because I did not want to shit my pants.
The bus made a stop in a city where I was too distracted to take note of the name. Federal officials boarded the bus. I had to present my passport. I hoped they would be a bit more efficient than most of the border patrol that I had come across on my journey, but like any government paid employee they were in no hurry.
Finally we were back on the road with a bus driver who could have been mistaken as Sandra Bullock fromSpeed jamming at 55 plus miles per hour down the sloped road. This guy had no regard for the comfort of the passengers. He hugged every curve in the road. With every stomp on the gas pedal came an abrupt slam on the brakes keeping the passengers bobbing back and forth. I wasn't concerned with living or dying as much as I was worried about my unpredictable bowel movements, but one passenger caught my eye. Noley Bear was clenching to the seat in front of him with his head down and his eyes closed. All I could think of was how much of a pussy he was. My fearful thoughts of Hershey squirts were briefly evaded with this observation and I was thankful for having such a mama's boy in the seat next to mine.
The bus ride came to an end at another train station and my underwear was surprisingly still dry. We had to take one more ride on an overground train to conclude our two day trek. I knew I had to hang on by a thread for just a little longer for my stinging red butt hole would be home free. I closed my eyes the whole way to the city and when we arrived, we hailed a cab and took it to the nearest hotel. I gladly paid a smidgen more than I normally would for a room so I could finally have use of a clean restroom and some much needed rest.
Fire works banged loudly out side and I sat on the porcelain pedestal that I was blessed to have use of. The Spaniards celebrated noisily in the streets of Barcelona for El Dia De San Juan, but I quietly imagined from the restroom that they were celebrating my relief.